I left Faralya on the 8am Dolmus to Kabak. The guys at the cafe were still asleep on the terrace, then gave me the wrong directions down the road. First injury, fell over and grazed my knee, and on the wrong road. An old guy sitting on some rocks pointed me in the right direction up the hill in Turkish, then a German guy came out onto his terrace and told me how to get to the path in English. Back to Mama's Pension, then right less than 50m up a steep dirt path.
Someone has built a house and fenced off the path, leaving a narrow eroded path to scale. But after this the track becomes really interesting, a narrow path around the valley, slowly climbing through patches of shady forest. The head of the valley is beautiful with constant views back to Kabak Beach.
The end of the valley has a scree slope that is a tricky climb, especially when carrying a full pack. I think I need new shoes.
I came across four Americans with a Turkish guide, who gave me some nuts, figs and advice to go head for Gey.
After a very long climb at the top of the path there an open area. I lost the markers for a while, but when all else failed I read the guide book and went left. I found the trail again, but went right down to a farmhouse and got waylaid by a family to have tea.
The 14 year old boy spoke some English, and is a Galatasaray fan but didn't know Harry Kewell. All was going well until he asked me for 10 Lira for the tea, I gave him 5 and he threatened to call the police. I walked away and then turned around to see them wave me goodbye with a smile. I was very close to the village of Alinca and turned on to the road. I stopped for another drink at a cafe with a really nice man and his 9 year old daughter, we talked via a battered English/Turkish phrase book. I could see the road for miles in the distance, and walked for about an hour. I was heading for Gey on the advice of the guide I met earlier in the morning. Was sick of the road, so flagged down the next car that came along. 4 men, one spoke English, and helped me put my backpack in the boot. There was another backpack in there as well. We drove along for a while, stopped at Bogazici, 2 of the men got out and did something. I spoke to the man who spoke English, turns out he is walking the Lycian Way as well. Another guy gets in the car, we all squeeze up and drive a few more kilometres. We stop at a turn off to Sydma, and me and the English speaker get out. We introduce ourselves, he is Murat, and we try and work out where we are. We seem to be nowhere near the walking path to Sydma, let alone Gey. Looks like we have to take the long way on the road. He laments the stupid Turkish people he has come across, but I am thinking the same thing would happen anywhere in the world, including Spain, Australia or New Zealand. Our car culture means few people know about walking trails, only roads by car. We set off towards another big hill. Cars go past, don't stop, a motorbike with a man and woman in a cloud of smoke. After a long trek uphill we reach the village of Dodurga. We keep going, more uphill towards Sydma. Just as we reach a really steep hill a car stops, an old battered Renault. The young driver moves the pane of glass in the back seat to the back window, and I am grateful we are going uphill. Very nervous on the last downhill into Sydma. We have information that the village imam can arrange accomodation, we are directed to the village muhtar (head man), he is not there, but his wife says we can stay. We go for a wander around the ruins, in middle of paddocks, used by farmers to graze their goats and grow crops.
Murat consulting google about the ruins of Sydma
We have another lovely vegetarian meal, then about 9 men, 2 with shotguns, turn up to sit around and chat. They are going out hunting for a wild pig. Won't eat it though.
