Monday, October 3, 2011

Istanbul in a day and some reflections on this trip


Istiklal Cad





Istanbul










Cat keeping warm in the Hagia Sofia









Shop fittings in Istanbul - Ataturk is everywhere










Galata Tower













Museum of Islamic Art





Much cooler in Istanbul. Didn't look at the map, having too much fun walking down Istiklal St, so got lost looking for the hotel. Asked around, eventually found it, next to Hotel Libya. Crowds of people on a Monday night in Istiklal St.
Great to spend a day in Istanbul, walked down through Galatasaray and across the bridge, through the spice market. Got to the Hagia Sofia early but there was still a queue. The Musuem of Islamic and Turkish Art is a lovely building and some wonderful carpets and other pieces.

This has been a short but really great trip. I did a lot of it on my own, but thanks to Murat, I went far in a short time, and learned a little bit more of what goes on in this country.

I have booked my flight for April 2012 already, I will be returning with Alyson to do what we intended in 2011, except we are making it up ourselves.

The route: link to map

Some stuff about the Lycian Way:
http://www.lycianturkey.com/index.htm

http://www.lycianway.com/LycianWayContent/aboutthewalk.html

Galata area Wikipedia

Some stuff about Gallipoli from other points of view:
http://www.independent.co.uk/opinion/commentators/fisk/robert-fisk-great-war-secrets-of-the-ottoman-arabs-2370951.html

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Lycian Way: Olympos, Çıralı, Chimaera



I get the bus from Kaş to the dolmus stop at the top of the hill above Çıralı. The dolmus down the hill costs more than the bus from Kaş (25TL v 15TL). Apparently Çıralı and Olympos are very popular weekend party places. I find a pansiyon on the outskirts of town, close to Chimaera. The ultra marathon people are following me again, and have set up their tents on the beach. It is raining as I come into Çıralı, and I put on my rain coat for the first time, but it is too hot and I take it off again. I walk a short 5km over to Olympos. The ruins are overgrown in the forest and scrub. At the other end of the ruins there are numerous bars and pansiyons, catering for a crowd that comes on the weekends to drink and go via the ruins to the beach which is also home to nesting turtles. Not sure how all this co-exists.
A very strong wind blows from the mountain Tahtalı Dağ, apparently there is a very large difference in temperature and pressure between the warm sea air and the cool mountain air.

The next morning I walk up to Chimaera. About 250m up the mountain there are naturally occurring flames coming out of the rocks. There are legends about monsters and the eternal flame.
I continue walking over the mountain pass to the village of Ulupinar, famous for fish farms.
The track on the south side of the mountain is harsh and stony, very hard going.






It would be great if people would carry down their empty water bottles. A tree has been decorated with the remains near the top of the path.

The north side is a complete contrast with shady forest, and cyclamens growing near the path. Ulupinar has water flowing in numerous gushing channels and pipes.
I am glad I am carrying only a light day pack, it is quite treacherous walking back down the south side, but I definitely need new hiking shoes. These Asolos are great but 500km in Spain, more than 100 in Australia, Jordan, Egypt and now Turkey, time for a new pair.

Saturday, October 1, 2011

Lycian Way: Kaş, Kekova

I say goodbye to Murat and become a conventional tourist for a day. I go on a boat trip to Kekova, a sunken city near Ucagiz. I meet Julia and Henry, two New Zealanders. Henry was bitten by a dog while running near Ovacik. He has had rabies and tetanus shots, and is very pale by the end of the day. A beautiful day swimming and seeing amazing things in the warm Mediterranean Sea.